Thom Browne, known for his theatrical flair in American fashion, concluded New York Fashion Week with a wintry spectacle, adorning the venue with faux snow and presenting his innovative designs accompanied by Edgar Allan Poe’s haunting “The Raven.” Celebrities like Janet Jackson and Queen Latifah graced the front row as Browne showcased his intricate tailoring and storytelling prowess, narrated by Carrie Coon. Browne, also the chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, is renowned for his immersive show settings, from mock cathedrals to distant planets.
In this latest presentation, models traversed a snowy landscape, embodying characters in Browne’s narrative rather than simply strutting down a runway. The show opened with a towering figure resembling a tree, from which emerged children, setting a darkly enchanting tone reminiscent of “The Nutcracker.” Poe’s melancholic verses echoed through the venue, setting the stage for a monochromatic collection with hints of gold.
Each ensemble, meticulously crafted, reflected Browne’s signature style of layered and intricate tailoring, ranging from structured coats to whimsical skirts. Some looks featured nods to Poe’s poem, with raven motifs adorning garments and the word “Nevermore” emblazoned on select pieces. Browne’s design aesthetic played with proportions, offering sleek silhouettes alongside boxy cuts and cinched waists.
Accessories included variations of the Hector bag, inspired by Browne’s pet, coated in waterproof vinyl matching the avant-garde footwear. For added whimsy, models sported gravity-defying braids, adding to the eerie atmosphere. Despite the dark undertones of “The Raven,” Browne concluded the show with a romantic gesture, presenting a heart-shaped box of chocolates to his partner Andrew Bolton, eliciting a collective “Aww” from the audience.
As attendees prepared to depart, many paused to interact with the performers and tromp through the artificial snow, embracing Browne’s immersive vision of fashion storytelling.
